What Are Cranberry Beans: Planting Cranberry Bean Seeds

What Are Cranberry Beans: Planting Cranberry Bean Seeds

Searching for a different bean variety? The cranberry bean (Phaseolus vulgaris) has long been used in Italian cuisine, but has more recently been introduced to the North American palate. As it is a difficult bean varietal to procure, if you’re growing cranberry beans, it is a great idea to save a few pods for next year’s garden.

What are Cranberry Beans?

The cranberry bean, also known as the Borlotti bean in Italy, is fairly difficult to find unless your community has a large Italian population or farmer’s market. Cranberry beans are usually found in the mass market as packaged and dried unless one encounters them in the independent local farmer’s market where they can be seen fresh with their beautiful coloration.

More widely known as shell beans, the cranberry bean is unrelated to a cranberry plant, and in fact, most closely resembles the pinto bean, although the flavor is dissimilar. The exterior of the cranberry bean is a mottled cranberry hue, hence its common name, and the interior beans are a creamy color.

Just as with all beans, the cranberry bean is low in calories, high in fiber, and a fabulous source of vegetable protein. Unfortunately, when the bean is cooked, it loses its lovely color and becomes a drab brown. Fresh cranberry beans are reported to taste akin to a chestnut.

How to Grow Cranberry Beans

Cranberry beans are an easy to grow plant. Neither pole nor bush beans, the cranberry bean grows on a stalk, which can attain a height of up to 6 feet (2 m.). Due to this great height, the cranberry bean needs to be staked and grows well planted in a large container, such as a half barrel or even a 1-gallon pot. Growing cranberry beans can also be planted against a traditional trellis support or a tepee-shaped support can be created, against which several plants can be grown.

However you decide to grow and stake your cranberry beans, remember they prefer a warmer climate than most bean varieties and definitely dislike frost. Soil temperature for cranberry beans should be at least 60 degrees F. (16 C.) or more.

Select an area with well drained soil and a pH of 5.8 to 7.0 or amend the soil to reflect the requirements.

Growing Cranberry Beans from Seeds

Cranberry bean plants can be started from either dried seeds or from fresh picked pods. To start from dried seeds, soak some quality potting soil with water until the consistency of mud, poke in a few dried cranberry bean seeds, and allow to dry slightly. Transfer the still moist soil and seed combination into smaller pots, cover with plastic wrap, and place in a warm area to germinate.

To start cranberry bean plants from fresh picked pods, squeeze the bean pod gently to split and remove seeds. Lay the seeds out on paper towels or the like and air dry for about 48 hours. Fill planting pots with seed starting medium and place them in a pan of water with the liquid reaching to the halfway mark on the pot sides. Leave in the water bath for about an hour or until the soil surface is wet. Germination of your cranberry bean seeds will occur in about a week in warm conditions.

Cooking Cranberry Beans

This super nutritious bean variety is also super versatile in the kitchen. The cranberry bean can be pan fried, boiled and, of course, made into soup.

To pan fry the cranberry bean, simmer in water for 10 minutes, dry off on a towel, and then sauté in a hot pan with a little olive oil. Cook until outer skins have crisped, season lightly with salt or seasoning of your choice, and you will have a crunchy healthy snack.

The virus that causes Bean Common Mosaic (often abbreviated as BCMV) is a common problem for growers of older varieties worldwide. Most modern commercially grown bean varieties are resistant however.

Bean Mosaic causes a mottled light and dark green mosaic-like pattern on leaves (they often look like they are variegated) and downward cupping along each leaflet. Depending upon the age, variety of plant and strain of virus they may not have a significant effect on the plant (maybe slowing growth slightly) or they may cause stunting and severely reduce the harvest. In some varieties there is a hypersensitive reaction that quickly kills the plant. There is also another, less common strain of BCMV known as Bean Common Mosaic Necrosis virus that is much more virulent and is commonly fatal.

Bean Mosaic is most often the result of planting infected seed (especially home saved seed, so be careful where you get it). Even a single infected seed can be a problem, as the virus can then be transmitted to other plants by aphids and can quickly spread through a planting. Whereas plants grown from infected seed are usually stunted and yield poorly, plants infected by aphids may still produce well (though the seed will be infected and shouldn’t be saved for replanting).

Mosaic is sometimes introduced into the garden on vegetable seedlings, so it’s best to grow your own, using disease-free seeds (beans are so easy to grow from seed that buying seedlings is a waste of money anyway). If the disease is prevalent in your area you might want to use row covers to keep aphids and other sucking insects off of your plants (though it’s usually easier to plant resistant varieties). If any plants start to exhibit symptoms, remove them immediately to reduce source of infection. Viruses are also frequently spread by gardeners, so don’t touch wet plants and wash your hands frequently with soap and water (especially after touching infected plants). You can minimize the effect of viruses by giving the plants plenty of nutrients and water to keep them in good health.

Image: Howard F. Schwartz, Colorado State University, Bugwood.org

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Weedwhacker's blog: BEANS

8/11/2015: I have quite a few different varieties of beans growing in my 2015 garden, some from the Piggy Seed Swap last fall and some that I bought to try (almost all are old heirloom types). I have only a few plants of most of them, just to multiply the seed that I started with and to make sure I have fresh seed the bean seeds stay viable for quite a few years, so next year I won't have to grow them all out again.

One that I got in the seed swap was just labeled "Cranberry," and it wasn't one I requested but a "gift packet," so I don't know who it actually came from. I wasn't really aware that there are actually many different beans called "Cranberry," some pole types, some bush types, but the vast majority are most suitable for using as green shell beans or dry beans (not snap beans). So I was surprised to find, while checking through the plants yesterday, that the pods on my "Cranberry" beans are slender, flat, tender and very tasty (raw, at least I pulled one off to try it). Also, most varieties have pods that are streaked with red, and these are just a solid medium green color.

*Update 8/21/15: Some of the pods are starting to "mature" and are now a yellowish color with red streaks.

I'm hoping I can unravel some of the history of the "cranberry beans" -- why are there so many different beans that go by that name, and what is this that I'm actually growing?

Victory Seeds sells a variety called Gross Brother's Vermont Cranberry http://www.victoryseeds.com/be.
Their photos certainly look like the beans that I have, although the seeds I started with weren't as brightly colored or as distinctly marked.

Victory Seeds also lists "Cranberry Bush Bean, Dry" (although there is no photo of the pods), as well as the bean "Tongue of Fire" comes up with a search for cranberry beans.

Russ Crow ("A Bean Collector's Window") says this about the Gross Brothers Vermont Cranberry: "Bush/Dry/Snap. About 65 days for snaps and 90 days to first dry beans. A Vermont woman rescued these beans from an old gardener who had passed away and had grown these beans for many years in the Cold Hollow mountain region near Enosburgh, Vermont. I obtained this variety from Victory Seeds in Molalla, Oregon."

An older description of the Gross Brothers Vermont Cranberry bean, quoted on "TheExtremeGardener" blog ( http://theextremegardener.good. ), says:
"65 to 85 days — An heirloom variety that was sent to us several years back by a gardening friend. She rescued it from an older gardener who has since passed away but who had grown it for many years in the short gardening season of the Cold Hollow Mountain region near Enosburgh, Vermont. Introduced commercial by us in 2007. We have been growing out limited quantities and are making them available to home gardeners. The seeds are buff and heavily mottled with cranberry coloring. They are used as green beans when young or dried. There are four to five seeds per five inch pod. The plants are upright and do not require support."

She comments that the photos in the Victory Seeds catalog appear to be the same plant as what she had been searching for and what she knew as the "Johnson Bean," which she believes referred to the town of Johnson, VT. She also concluded that ". the terms “cranberry” and “Vermont cranberry” were liberally applied to nearly any old horticultural-type bean – or should I say any bean with horticultural-type markings… and there were and are lots of them. "

Vermont Bean Seed Company lists "Krimson" and "Etna Bush Shell Bean" as cranberry beans.

Fedco Seeds lists "True Red Cranberry Pole" and "Vermont Cranberry"

Amishland Seeds sells "True Red Cranberry Pole" with this description: "This is the rare heirloom bean that was rediscovered by celebrated bean collector, John Withee. He searched for 11 years for this bean after reading about a "Red Cranberry" bean in a 1700's gardening encyclopedia. He finally discovered it growing on a Mr. Taylor's farm in Steep Falls, Maine. These beans are fat and shiny and a wondrous deep cranberry red color that does not show up well in photos. These beans really do look like real cranberries, only a bit darker red in color. These are probably one of America's oldest bean varieties, probably of Native American origin . True Red Cranberry beans grow on stocky, shortish 6 foot vines and can take the cold and short growing seasons better than any other bean I have grown. They have a rich flavor unlike any other bean I have tasted They are one of my personal favorites not only for beauty but for taste."

Limelight beans:

Description of Limelight on Fedco site:
Limelight Dry Bean (60 days shell, 85 days dry) A versatile variety, excellent both as a shell and a dry bean. Compact plants set light green to white seeds similar in shape, color and taste to baby limas, except much easier to grow in our climate and sweeter with a buttery texture. Developed in Alberta, Canada.

Description on Heritage Harvest Seeds (Canadian):
Limelight 1968
Developed at the Lethbridge Research Station and released in 1968. A selection of "Princess of Artois" with larger seeds and pods. The beans are used in the green shell stage and have a flavor and appearance similar to Lima Beans. Limelight did very well for me and was very productive with no signs of disease. Seeds are an ivory white color when dry. This variety was once carried by seed companies but has now become EXTREMELY RARE.
Type: Bush
Days to Maturity: 70-80 days for dry beans

Green Limelight (seeds have a green coloration): http://pubs.aic.ca/doi/pdf/10.

Flageolet beans: My interest in this has been piqued because SSE has a bean called Cheverbel listed as a "stewardship opportunity." It is being discontinued from the Heritage Farm collection because of lack of history in the US.

http://www.loverofcreatingflav. This page has this information about Flageolet beans:

“The Caviar of Beans”, flageolet are also known under numerous cultivar names, such as Chevrier, (which is the original heirloom bean), Elsa, Flambeau, Flamingo, Chelinex, Cheverbel, Chevrinor, Flagrano, Roi des Verts, Vernel, and so on. Flageolet beans are so popular in Australia, one of the principal growers, alongside California, that they have their own varieties. The biggest producers of flageolet beans are Brazil, India and China. Flageolet beans plump up when cooked, and have a mild flavour and creamy texture that goes well with traditional Cassoulets and is a very popular accompaniment to lamb. The best flageolet are harvested when they are still very young and tender.
The dried varieties are usually dried whilst still in the pod after picking, then shelled when the pod is dry. An excellent bean for use in any recipe requiring legumes, flageolet beans have a creamy texture but resist falling apart when cooked. They really are the perfect bean! The flageolet is actually a variety of the common bean (Phaseolus vulgaris) and is small, light green, and kidney-shaped.
These beans, which have a very tender skin, are actually small, young haricot beans that have been harvested and dried before they are fully ripe. The bean is removed from the pod when tender and just maturing. In America, this bean, which originated in France in the 1800’s, is mainly grown in the fertile soil of California. The pod of the Flageolet is inedible. Although the original flageolet beans are a pale green, there are now many varieties in other colours: black, white, red, or yellow. Flageolet do not require soaking and cook relatively quickly, even the dried beans require only a little longer to cook without soaking first. Flageolet beans can be served on their own merit with lamb, chicken and fish.
Bonduelle is the biggest producer of canned flageolet in France and according to their website flageolet belongs to the same family as the broad bean, lentil and chickpea. It is a herbaceous annual plant, with trifoliate leaves, which grows in temperate/hot climates, and comes in varying sizes. Climbing varieties, with twining stems, can grow up to several metres high. The flowers, grow in bunches and the fruit are pods opening into two valves. Flageolet beans in cans and frozen are always prepared using fresh, green seeds of certain varieties of beans, which are harvested in September and October. Flageolet beans are high in energy because they contain all the reserves necessary to the future plant during its germination. It is rich in carbohydrates, fibre and vitamin B9."

Another long article here: http://www.plantnames.unimelb.

Johnny's Seeds sells Flagrano.
Nichols Garden Nursery sells "French Flageolet Bush Bean"
SSE catalog has "Green Flageolet"
SSE has one member w/ "Flambeau"

"The Flageolet bean had its beginnings in France in the early 1800s. The French were making refinements in dwarf bean types that had first appeared in England. These early Flageolets were red, white or black but their tastes were described as similar. In 1878, however, a farmer near Paris named Gabriel Chevrier introduced something entirely new. His bean was light green in color with a smallish squared shape. And most importantly the Chevrier bean had a wonderful light, fresh taste. It was an immediate sensation with fine French chefs.

Today the Flageolet bean remains a ‘classic’ in a number of French dishes and it is considered a bean of “refinement.” The original Chevrier bean, however, has largely been replaced by ‘improvements’ such as Flavert, Soissons Vert and Triomphe des Chasiss. In America any flageolet bean is difficult to find and the most common strain is the oddly named “Flagrano.” These new introductions have disease resistance that Chevrier lacks and they tend not to display Chevrier’s tiresome habit of falling over. Still, a few gardeners with supple spines and a sanguine outlook about occasional crop failures have kept the original Chevrier Vert in private circulation.

I have grown both Flagrano and the Chevrier Flageolet bean. Neither seemed particularly keen to grow or produce well in my Northern California garden. My guess is that they would prefer a cooler summer climate, better soil and more water. So would I.

Flageolet beans are typically used as a dry bean but for a short time in August they can be found in France as a “semi-dry” or “shelly bean.” I’ve read that the old time French farming technique to produce them is to pull up the entire bean plant when the pods are filled. When the pods are slightly wrinkled they are ready to be shelled. The technique sounds credible since it is the same used in Appalachia to made “shucky beans.”"

Origin: Pronounced fla-jo-LAY. Flageolets were first developed by Gabriel Chevrier in Brittany, France, in 1872 and were noted as a favorite of the famous French chef Auguste Escoffie. Flageolets have always been associated with elegant cooking. It became especially famous at the International Paris Exposition in 1878 and chefs of Paris were quick to incorporate the new ingredient.
Cooking: Flageolets have a delicate, thin skin so should be cooked slowly and gently until tender. The reward for this gentle cooking is a spectacularly creamy texture. This is a great ingredient for light, sophisticated recipes. The beans are often paired with lamb and look beautiful when served with leeks in the winter.
Growing: Flageolets are a bush bean. The dry bean seeds may dry green (referred to as vert) rather than white. They are also often harvested as a fresh shelling bean."
Current Facts:
The Flageolet Shelling bean is an heirloom bush bean variety and members of the Phaseolus vulgaris genus, the most widely cultivated genre of beans in the world. The original cultivar of Flageolet beans (Soisson Vert à Rames) is only available to a few select growers in the world, of which, one is Seed Savers Exchange within the United States. Flageolet beans are also known to show up in other colors including yellow, black, red and white. The Flageolet Shelling beans are also their seeds. Seeds left on the plant or harvested to dry can be saved and sown for future crops.

Produced in an inedible pod, Flageolet Shelling beans are distinguished by their small, kidney-shaped beans and pale lime green coloring. Their attractive pale green color is unique to their species and their size is notably dwarf. When picked young, fresh and semi-dry they are at their most optimal eating state. The Flageolet Shelling beans are creamy and firm in texture, nutty, sweet and mellow in flavor.

Although Flageolets are often harvested as a fresh bean, dried Flageolets make a great soup or puree. These beans, unlike other shelling beans do not typically require soaking. Cook them low and slow and their texture will continue to get buttery, making for a sweet, rich brothy and creamy soup or puree. Cooking times will be shorter as soaking is not required. Complimentary pairings include bacon, ham, corn, chiles, tomatoes, chicken, cumin. garlic, oregano, stewed pork, cooked eggs, cream, herbs such as cilantro, arugula, mint and basil, melting and fresh cheeses, light-bodied vinegars, feta, citrus, pea tendrils, roasted fish and beef, bitter and mild greens, butter and olive oil.

The Flageolet bean is both rare (endangered heirloom status) and famous! Its notoriety began briefly after its cultivation in 1872, as it was introduced at the International Paris Exposition in 1878. It became a favorite of the legendary chef, Escoffie, his validation brought the Flageolet elite status that has nearly unwavered in over 100 years. Flageoet Shelling beans are best suited for arid and coastal Mediterranean climates with rich organic soil and warm to hot summers. They are grown throughout temperate Europe and North America.

info on this site includes:

Know your Flageolet bean – Varieties:
The bean is available in a variety of colours including white (flageolet blanc), black (noir), yellow (jaune), red (rouge) or green (vert).
Flageolet bean varieties include:
Chevrier (the original heirloom)

sells Chevrier and Red Flageolet (aka "Cock's Kidney")

SSE has the following:
Flageolet, French
Flageolet Noir
Flageolet Rouge
Flageolet Black
Brita's Foot Long

How to Grow Dry Beans

Dry or dried beans–also called shell beans–are beans grown to full maturity and left in their pods to dry before being shelled and stored for later use. Dried beans can be stored in a cool, dry place for up to a year or more. (These beans also can be harvested at the green, shelling stage–when seeds are still tender–and eaten before they dry. Often these beans are called “shuckies.”) Many beans that can be eaten fresh and immature also can be grown to maturity and dried.

Beans are a tender annual best planted early in the season as soon as the frost has passed. Sow beans in the garden just after the average date of the last frost in spring. To get an early start on the season, sow beans indoors as early as 3 or 4 weeks before the average last frost date in spring for transplanting into the garden a week or two after the last frost. Beans will grow in the garden until the first frost in fall. But they will not set pods in temperatures above 80°F. Beans for shelling are sometimes harvested after the first frost, well after plants have dropped their leaves.

Description. Dry beans or shell beans are beans grown to full maturity, usually harvested in fall after the pods have matured and the leaves of the plant have dried and fallen. Beans grow either as bushes or vines. The size and color of pods and seeds can vary. Pods can be 3 or 4 inches to 12 to 14 inches long at maturity and vary in color during the growing season: green, yellow, purple, and speckled. Leaves are commonly composed of three leaflets and flowers are pale yellow or white. Beans for shelling commonly grow on bushes that are to 2 or 3 feet tall some are pole beans that can grow to 8 feet tall or more. Dry beans require from 70 to 120 days to reach harvest.

Yield. Grow 4 to 8 bean plants per each household member.

Site. Grow beans in full sun. Beans will grow in partial shade but the harvest will not be full. Beans prefer loose, well-drained soil rich in organic matter. Beans prefer a soil pH of 6.0 to 6.8. Prepare planting beds in advance by working in plenty of aged compost. Avoid planting beans where soil nitrogen is high or where green manure crops have just grown these beans will produce green foliage but few beans.

Planting time. Beans are a tender annual that grow best in temperatures between 50° and 85°F. Beans will not set pods in temperatures above 80°F. Sow beans in the garden just after the average date of the last frost in spring when the soil temperature has warmed. The optimal growing soil temperature for beans is 60° to 85°F. Start beans indoors as early as 3 or 4 weeks before the average last frost date in spring for transplanting into the garden a week or two after the last frost. Start beans indoors in a biodegradable peat or paper pot that can be set whole into the garden so as not to disturb plant roots. Beans can continue in the garden until the first frost in fall. Dry beans are allowed to stay on the plant until leaves have fallen and pods have dried and withered.

Planting and spacing. Sow beans 1 to 1½ inch deep. Plant bush beans 3 to 4 inches apart set rows 18 to 24 inches apart. Plant pole beans 4 to 6 inches apart set rows 30 to 36 inches apart. Set poles, stakes, or supports in place at planting time. Pole beans also can be planted in inverted hills–5 or 6 seeds to a hill space hills 40 inches apart. Thin strong seedlings from 4 to 6 inches apart. Remove weaker seedlings by cutting them off at soil level with a scissors being careful not to disturb the roots of other seedlings. Bean can be crowded they will use each other for support.

Water and feeding. Grow beans in soil that is evenly moist. Bean seeds may crack and germinate poorly if the soil moisture is too high at sowing. Do not soak seeds in advance of planting and do not over-water after sowing. Keep the soil evenly moist during flowering and pod formation. Rain or overhead irrigation during flowering can cause flowers and small pods to fall off. Once the soil temperature averages greater than 60°F, mulch to conserve moisture.

Beans are best fertilized with aged garden compost they do not require extra nitrogen. Beans set up a mutual exchange with soil microorganisms called nitrogen-fixing bacteria which produce the soil nitrogen beans require. Avoid using green manures or nitrogen-rich fertilizers.

Companion plants. Bush beans: celery, corn, cucumbers, potatoes, rosemary, strawberries, summer savory. Pole beans: corn, rosemary, summer savory, scarlet runner beans, sunflowers. Do not plant beans with onions, beets, or kohlrabi.

Care. Cultivate around beans carefully to avoid disturbing the shallow root system. Do not handle beans when they are wet this may spread fungus spores. Set poles, stakes, or trellises in place before planting pole beans. Select supports that are tall enough for the variety being grown. Rotate beans to plots where lettuce, squash, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, or collards have grown in the past year or two.

Container growing. Dry beans are not a practical choice for container growing. They require a long season and many plants for a full harvest. Bush beans can be grown in containers, but you may need several containers for a practical harvest. Beans will grow in 8-inch containers.

Pests. Beans can be attacked by aphids, bean beetles, flea beetles, leafhoppers and mites. Aphids, leafhoppers, and mites can be sprayed away with a blast of water from the hose or controlled with insecticidal soap. Look for eggs and infestations and crush them between your fingers and thumb. Pinch out and remove large infestations. Aphids can spread bean mosaic virus. Keep the garden clean and free of debris so that pests can not harbor or over-winter in the garden.

Diseases. Beans are susceptible to blight, mosaic, and anthracnose. Plant disease-resistant varieties. Keep the garden clean and free of debris. Avoid handling plants when they are wet so as not to spread fungal spores. Removed diseased plants put them in a paper bag and throw them away. Beans are susceptible to many soil-borne diseases rotating beans so that they do not grow in the same location more than every three years will reduce soil-borne diseases.

Harvest. Dry beans will be ready for harvest 70 to 120 after sowing when plants have matured and leaves have turned brown or fallen. To test for harvest, bite a couple of seeds if they will hardly dent they are dry and ready for harvest. Harvest pods when they are completely dry. If pods have withered but are still moist, pick them and then spread them on a flat screen or surface in a warm, protected place where they can thoroughly dry. Plant also can be taken up whole and hung upside down to dry. Pods that are fully dry will split open to reveal the dried beans. Dry beans can be shelled by threshing in a burlap sack or by hand.

Varieties. There are many types of dry or shell beans. Horticultural beans or French flageolets are a type of dry bean usually eaten in the green-shell stage. Other dry or shell beans include cranberry, Great Northern, pinto, and red kidney.

Fava or English broadbean shell beans: Aquadulce Very Long Pod (90 days) Broad Long Pod (85 days) Express (71 days) Imperial Green Longpod (84 days) Sweet Lorraine (90 days) Windsor Long Pod (65 days).

Horticultural shell beans: Dwarf Horticultural (65 days) French Horticultural (64-90 days) Horticultural Shell (85 days) Speckled Bale (75 days) Tongue of Fire (70 days).

Soybean shell beans: Black Jet (104 days) Envy (75 days) Hakucho Early (95 days) Prize (85-105 days).

Kidney shell beans: Aztec Red Kidney (90 days) Cannelone Bean (70-90 days) Dark Red Kidney (95 days) Red Kidney (95-100 days) White Kidney (100 days).

Other shell beans: Adzuki (90-125 days) Anasazi (90 days) Black Bean (90 days) Borlotto (68 days) Cannellini (75 days) Flageolet (65-100 days) Garbanzo (65-100 days) Improved Pinto (90 days) Midnight Black Turtle (85-104 days) Mung (120 days) Pink Bean (85 days) Pinto (90 days) Red Mexican (85 days) Rice Bean (85 days) Soldier (85 days) Urdi Black Gram (85 days).

Navy shell beans: Navy (85-95 days).

Red, purple, cranberry shell beans: Cranberry Bean (60 days) Jacobs Cattle (65-85 days) Mexican Red Bean (85 days) Montezuma (95 days) Speckled Cranberry Egg (65 days) Vermont Cranberry (60-90 days).

White shell beans: Cannellini (80 days) Great White Northern (90 days).

Storing and preserving. Dried shelled beans can be stored in a cool, dry place for 10 to 12 months. Place well dried beans in a capped, airtight jar or in a fabric bag with good air circulation.

Common name. Dry bean, dried bean, shell bean, pinto bean, navy bean, horticultural bean, flageolet

Botanical name. Phaseolus vulgaris and species

Origin. South Mexico, Central America


Comments (14)


I forgot to put this in my original post:

Do these varieties grow well in bean teepees?

What sort of yield can I expect from these varieties?


Hello, vtguitargirl. I suggest you take a few minutes to learn how to search this forum. There are dozens of threads regarding each of the varieties you mention. Just two weeks ago there was a lengthy discussion on scarlet runners. And last week there was a discussion of how folks support their pole beans, with photos. There's so much to learn from just entering a keyword, something like "pole bean". Actually, there's always something to learn here!

Happy searching, and welcome to the forum!

When your cranberries begin to produce, you’ll need to harvest them. You’ll know they’re ready for harvest when the seed turns brown and the outer berry turns a deep red.

Cranberries are usually harvested in September and early October. They also produce in clusters which makes picking them much easier than other berry types.

On average, you can expect to get a pound of cranberries per plant. As the plant matures, you can expect to get upwards of three pounds per plant.

However, mature plants that produce that much may only produce every other year.

After you’ve plucked the cranberries from the plants, you’ll need to store them.

Cranberries can be stored in an airtight container for approximately one to two months. You can also freeze or dehydrate cranberries for longer-term storage.

However, be sure you wash and remove the stems of the cranberries before dehydrating or freezing them.

Watch the video: Growing Cranberry Bean Time Lapse - Seed To Pod in 42 Days